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Legendary shots of David Bowie by Mick Rock

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He’d already caught rock idols including Queen and Lou Reed on film when he became the official photographer of David Bowie in 1972. From then on he was the lucky witness of his dazzling ascension. Published by Taschen, the book, “Mick Rock, The Rise of David Bowie: 1972-1973” is a photographic record of the metamorphosis of the artist into the icon of a generation. A shot of a flamboyant Ziggy Stardust – the artist’s alter ego – having his make-up applied, an intimate portrait taken backstage, photos of spectacular stage sets, this book reveals numerous and different facets of the fabulous singer of “Let’s Dance”. A beautiful oeuvre and a vibrant tribute. 

 

« Mick Rock : Shooting for Stardust, The Rise of David Bowie 1972-1973 » Taschen editions.

 

By Chloë Fage 

 

 

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Article avec galerie308The famous 1970's photographer Mick Rock has selected precious photographs from his archives for a new book focusing on the artistry of the legend that is David Bowie.
November 18th 2015Photography
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© Mick Rock

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Photographer Erwin Olaf, fury and solitude, at the Rabouan Moussion Gallery

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Article 66/33312From his furious self-portraits done after the attacks of January 7th to his clichés of solitary women caught in the act of interminable waiting, the Dutch photographer stages the vulnerability of humanity at the Rabouan Moussion Gallery.
November 20th 2015Photography
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Exhibited since October in the new and very beautiful space at the Rabouan Moussion Gallery, the two self-portraits of the artist with spittle on his lips and bulging eyes, raging at the 7th January attacks resonate with an even more unsettling acuity today. Faced with the eternal question of what an artist can do after the shock of such events, Erwin Olaf responds with art, i.e. the sensitive embodiment of his contradictory feelings. His tense body seems hampered, his deformed face gagged. Hatred, pain, fear, violence and powerlessness… “I was devastated, and at the same time incapable of crying,” confided the artist in September. “It was the first time I did self-portraits that talk, not just about me, but about the global situation. I didn’t know how to react. But I was too angry to just do nothing. These two photos are exactly what they are: an almost instinctive reaction, primal emotions in the face of horror. But it won’t stop me from continuing to celebrate freedom and to continue working.”.

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Anger (2015) d’Erwin Olaf.

Courtesy the artist and Rabouan Moussion Paris

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His exhibition “Waiting”, on until November 28th, is visual proof. It includes – as well as these two self-portraits – two sides to the artist’s work, one is autobiographical and the other dedicated to sophisticated mises en scène. Both are interested in the human condition, from the vulnerability of simply being to the relationship between power and submission. In the first room are self-portraits. Erwin Olaf has confronted himself with this method for many years, recording the changes in his body brought about by time and illness [the artist suffers from a respiratory disease]. We see the very advertising-esque aesthetic of his photographs, the glossy colours and perfect light. The Dutchman earnt his stripes in that domain and continues – although more rarely – to contribute to campaigns orchestrated by major brands. Above all we recognise, since his series of the 90s to the 2000s, his ability to stylise, often to the max. His portraits rival the great Flemish masters from Vermeer to Rembrandt, to whom he is compared with a reflex that’s almost too Pavlovian.  

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Waiting, La Défense 2 (2014) d’Erwin Olaf.

Courtesy  the artist and Rabouan Moussion Paris 

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The ambiguity of such an aesthetic is revealed to its full extent in the second and much bigger room of the Rabouan Moussion Gallery. Large scale photographs, as he likes them to be, along with two videos projected onto screens facing each other, give the exhibition its title: “Waiting”. Erwin Olaf captures women, of all origins, in profile in wide shots or in close-ups, but always they are waiting. In what we imagine to be a hotel lobby, or a restaurant, these women wait patiently, unperturbed… well almost. The whole force of this installation comes from this sense of ‘almost’. Is it deception in their eyes? Impatience in that rictus? Hope in that gaze? As the visit continues the questions multiply because we’ve all experienced these types of situations.

 

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Waiting, Nairobi 3 (2014) d’Erwin Olaf.

Courtesy  the artist and Rabouan Moussion Paris

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But the skill of the photographer lies with his ability to never give an answer, to retain that ambiguity. These women, whose vulnerability comes with waiting, thrusting them into a position of submission, remain forever elusive. They escape us because of the monochromatic styling and this “advertising aesthetic” that doesn’t allow us to “see” their feelings. They hide them, smooth them over and become ever more mysterious. Erwin Olaf has long excelled in this game of reversal. The stylisation that normally renders photographs so flat and so literal, transforms them into enigmatic clichés. The smooth surface covers a depth that comes out in the details with such delicacy. You have to dig, that is to say confront the videos and the photos as well as your own experience, to reveal what’s beneath. “Everyone can think what they like when looking at a photograph, take the time they need to understand, like or hate it. But I’ve noticed that certain people stay in front of my 45-minute double video, trying to get into the soul of the woman who’s waiting. They’re seeking her emotions, these same emotions I try to express through the camera in all their nuances and complexity,” the artist concludes.  

 

“Waiting” exhibition by Erwin Olaf, until the 28th of November at Rabouan Moussion Gallery, 11, rue Pastourelle, Paris IIIe. www.rabouanmoussion.com

 

By Thibaut Wychowanok

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Vue de l’exposition “Waiting” d’Erwin Olaf à la galerie Rabouan Moussion jusqu’au 28 novembre.

Courtesy  the artist and Rabouan Moussion Paris

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Waiting, Shenzhen, Portrait 2 (2014) d’Erwin Olaf.

Courtesy  the artist and Rabouan Moussion Paris

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The Galerie Perrotin pays tribute to Pierre Paulin, a truly visionary and unusual designer

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Article 66/33317Visionary, atypical, Pierre Paulin was always at the cutting edge of design. With a new exhibition devoted to his work at the Galerie Perrotin, Numéro and his son look back at his extraordinary career.
November 24th 2015Design

Pierre Paulin (1927-2009) has never been so feted. After being honoured by Louis Vuitton and Nicolas Ghesquière, notably at Design Miami in December 2014 where previously unpublished drawings from the 1970s were presented, the Pompidou Centre is holding a dedicated exhibition this coming spring and for the last few weeks there’s been an original and highly seductive exhibition of his work at the GaleriePerrotin. Until December 19th, creations – again many never shown before – dialogue with works by some of the biggest contemporary artists, from Bertrand Lavier to Elmgreen & Dragset. Within the sumptuous gallery space we see the sensual functionalism of his oeuvre, his research into materials (elasticated fabrics and foam) and the modularity of shapes that made him famous. For Numéro Benjamin Paulin looks back at his father’s incredible adventures from the 1950s to the 2000s. 

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Numéro: In what way was Pierre Paulin, from his earliest works, a visionary designer?

Benjamin Paulin:  My father was born in France in 1927. He grew up and took his first steps as a designer here, but he quickly realised that French design hadn’t evolved with modernity. Furniture wasn’t adapted, at least in terms of size, according to habitations and new post-war lifestyles. He was even more conscious of this after his trip to Scandinavia in 1951 where design was being completely revolutionised. Discovering editors who had already taken into account this modernity in motion, such as Knoll and Herman Miller (of which American designer George Nelson was made director of design in 1945), also played a major part in his approach. However his willingness to adapt French design to the era wasn’t done in an iconoclastic way, he didn’t erase all traces of the past. On the contrary, my father wanted to take what existed into the future. 

 

Isn’t the futurist aspect of his work dated?

His vision of the future has actually become something of a classic. The furniture my father made during the 1960s, in tune with the future as perceived at the time, still fits in with our current perceptions. So you’ll see pieces by my father in films like Avengers or Iron Man used to symbolise a “futuristic” interior. And I think that tour de force comes from the fact he wasn’t seeking a purified gesture or aesthetic. His work was always about solid technical research. The aesthetic always came as a result of technique and, of course, the vision of the person who makes it their own. 

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View of the exhibition “Paulin, Paulin, Paulin”, Galerie Perrotin, Paris from october 22th to december 19th 2015 

From left to righ: Tara Donovan, Pierre Paulin et Heinz Mack.

 

Photo: Claire Dorn. © Tara Donovan. © Heinz Mack / ADAGP, Paris, 2015. Courtesy Paulin, Paulin, Paulin and Galerie Perrotin

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We often think of his work as restricted to the 1960s but Pierre Paulin’s oeuvre is much more eclectic than that. What were the most important creative periods in your father’s life?

He’s even been labelled a pop designer although he never saw himself as part of that movement, or any movement for that matter. He questioned his work throughout his life. In the 1950s he was mostly interested in wood, inspired by Scandinavian and American designers, all while adding his own poetry, finesse and lightness. Then at the end of the 1950s he discovered Stretch fabrics that allowed him to compose new shapes for a dozen or so years. They became more organic, the feet are no longer visible… Then he became interested in modularity, of which Ensemble Dune and the Tapis-Sièges being shown at the Perrotin Gallery are fine examples. Everyone can combine different elements, assemble and take them apart at will, and becoming as a result the architects of their own interior. Then he started down a new path by getting seriously involved with industrial production. He modernised everyday objects like the iron where he put a water reserve into the handle. He spent 15 years creating like this. Finally, and this is undoubtedly the least known period of his oeuvre, my father went back to a more traditional and artisanal production focusing on noble materials. He revisited the classics with his own modern vision. From this final “classic” period, the gallery is showing the extraordinary Cathédrale table of 1981 that aligns engineering with the curves of gothic architecture. My father saw this as his masterpiece. This was also the time when he decided to do, particularly for his exhibition at the Arts décoratifs in 1983, limited edition pieces, even though democratisation and industrialisation were all the rage. It was a commercial disaster. And yet he was at the forefront of what’s happening today. 

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View of the exhibition “Paulin, Paulin, Paulin”, Galerie Perrotin, Paris from october 22th to december 19th 2015 

From left to righ:  Mike Bouchet, Pierre Paulin, Xavier Veilhan et John De Andrea.

 

Photo: Claire Dorn. © Xavier Veilhan / ADAGP, Paris, 2015. Courtesy Paulin, Paulin, Paulin, Peres Projects and Galerie Perrotin

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Why was his work received so ambivalently?

 Ambivalent, yes, that’s the least we can say. France is unfortunately often the last to show interest in its own creative people. I think even Monsieur and Madame Pompidou, who asked him to decorate their private apartments at the Élysée in 1971, had discovered Pierre Paulin in the mid-sixties at a MoMA exhibition. The New York museum was the first to recognise the strength and originality of my father’s work, particularly with the stretchy fabrics and foams… He’d already revolutionised design and no one in France even realised.

 

A wonderful aspect of the Galerie Perrotin exhibition comes from their highlighting of the extreme sensuality of Pierre Paulin’s furniture.

His furniture melds into the form of the human body and comfort was effectively central to his pre-occupations. The hyper-realist sculpture of the lascivious female nude by John De Andrea, sitting or lounging on Ensemble Dune emphasises this sensuality. Just like Elmgreen & Dragset’s performance piece (also featured at the 2009 Venice Biennale) where a nude young man reads a books on a F444 armchair, oblivious to gallery visitors.

 

By exhibiting Pierre Paulin in a contemporary art gallery, and soon at the Pompidou Centre, is this a way of giving the designer artistic status? 

 My father would never have accepted that. He held artists in very high esteem. In his opinion they should remain alone against the world and refuse all compromise… quite the opposite of a designer, who must comply with technical norms, a market and a clientele. But these days art has become an industry too, so much so that my father’s artistic vision can be more easily integrated into the art field.   

 

“Paulin, Paulin, Paulin”, at the Galerie Perrotin in Paris, until December 19th, 76, rue de Turenne, Paris, 3rd. www.perrotin.com

 

Paulin, Paulin, Paulin is a structure founded in 2008 by Pierre Paulin’s wife and son, joined by his wife Alice Lemoine, to highlight the designer’s work. It produces creations, often originals, with the support of Michel Chalard, who was Pierre Paulin’s closest technical collaborator.

 

Interview by Thibaut Wychowanok

 

 

 

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Candida Höfer, musée du Louvre Paris I (2005), C-Print, 184 x 231,2 cm.

 

© Candida Höfer, Köln / VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn & ADGAP, Paris, 2015 (Borne Louvre de Pierre Paulin, 1968)

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View of the exhibition “Paulin, Paulin, Paulin”, Galerie Perrotin, Paris from october 22th to december 19th 2015 

From left to righ: Jesús Rafael Soto, Pierre Paulin, John De Andrea, Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian et Xavier Veilhan.

 

Photo: Claire Dorn © Jesús Rafael Soto / ADAGP, Paris, 2015 © Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian and The Third Line © Xavier Veilhan / ADAGP, Paris, 2015 Courtesy Paulin, Paulin, Paulin and Galerie Perrotin

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Bob Moses, the new electronic music revelation

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Article 66/33322The very talented New-York duo will perform at the Badadoum on November 28th. Few days before they answer Numero's questions.
November 26th 2015Culture

Inspired by New York City and its underground electronic music scene, Bob Moses designs house music in hauting and enveloping waves. Between bewitching voice and rock and grunge influences, Tom Howie and Jimmy Vallance, friends since highschool, take us in the sweaty ambiance of alternative nightclubs. Numero meets up few days before their concert at the Badaboum, on November 28th.

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When you record your first albumn, did you have a specific idea of the kind of music you looked for?

Bob Moses : With our first album we wanted to perfect the sound that we had been searching for and building over our previous EPs. We wanted to include rhythms and tempos that aren’t all meant for the club, and go deeper with our lyrics and melodies. We would describe the album as melancholic, hopeful, introspective, dark, moody, brooding, euphoric and trippy. Vancouver shaped us probably in more ways than we consciously realize. The Pacific Northwest vibe, the proximity to the whole grunge movement and Seattle, the type of music that was played on the radio… There is a lot of rock and alternative rock, grunge, punk, surfer vibes going on, especially with the huge snowboarding and marijuana culture that permeates the city. 

 

Why did you chose "Bob Moses" as a name?

We chose Bob Moses because the label we started on, Scissor and Thread, had a sort of retro NYC vibe to it, and all the artists were supposed to have names that were a strange twist on something iconic about New York. So we took our name after Robert Moses, the architect who had a huge influence on modern day New York, and we shortened his name to Bob as a joke.

 

Where does your passion for music come from?

We were both raised in very musical families where everyone was always singing and playing music, it was a huge part of our lives all the time, so this definitely influenced us greatly as well. We both starting playing piano when we were little. But we finally prefered play drums and guitar. Tom recording demos of songs with his punk bands when he was 13… Jimmy found it much more fun and productive being alone. Then being alone kind of lost its charm and Tom came in to save the day

 

What kind of experience do you want to share with your audience during a live performance?

We want to connect with the people in the audience as much as possible. We are blessed that now lots of the people that come to our shows know our music and have connected with it before hand, so we can connect on a very intimate level. Our songs for us are very personal, so to have people come out to shows and see that these songs have touched them in some way, or have affected them in some way, makes us feel very connected to our audience. Basically our goal for every performance is to enjoy the moment and give new life to the music for ourselves and for our fans, and we do that through changing the arrangements sometimes slightly, or mixing them together in new ways. It’s not a huge process to prepare for us, we just psych ourselves up, jump up and down a few times, do some push ups. We always give each other a hug or fist bump or something and wish ourselves well for the show, and just try to help each other enjoy it as much as possible!

 

 

Bob Moses at the Badaboum

Saturday, November 28th

2, rue des Taillandiers, Paris XIe. 

 

Facebook event.

Buy tickets.

 

 

 

Propos recueillis par Thibaut Wychowanok

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Bob Moses - I Ain’t Gonna Be the First to Cry 

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Photo Tim Saccenti

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The exhibit “After Eden,” currently at the Maison Rouge, is a fascinating exploration of paradises lost.

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At once concentrated and eclectic,“After Eden” regroups over 800 historic, contemporary and ethnographic photographs that present the world as a paradise lost.

 

Punctuated by various recurring themes—the countryside, portraiture, the city, identity, otherness—the exhibit turns the spectator into an explorer of deserted stretches of Africa (captured by David Goldblatt) or brute, menacing nature (the series As Terra do Fim do Mund by Jo Ractliffe). The relationship between man and these post-apocalyptic environments are foregrounded in the series Faces and Phases by the photographer and militant African Zanele Muholi; in photojournalistic works by Guy Tillim; and by Rotimi Fani-Kayodé’s representations of sexual and cultural transgressions in Nigeria. In this exhibit, contemporary African photography becomes a tool of activism and engagement.

 

This intense exploration, which brings us from Germany to America andAsia, examines the darker sides of human nature, the cause of mankind’s fall and our arrival in our current post-Eden. This is forcefully illustrated by the erotic images (by Nobuyoshi Araki and Daido Moriyama) that close out the exhibit. Here man is a voyeur in perpetual search of transgression; a perverted Adam who will never reach salvation.

 

“After Eden,” the Walther collection, is at the Maison Rouge (10 Bd de la bastille, Paris XII) from October 17 to January 17, 2016.

 

By Chloë Fage

 

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Article avec galerie332The exceptional collection of Artur Walther, the former banker who is passionate about contemporary photography, is now on display at the Maison Rouge.
December 04th 2015Exhibition
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Every Moment Counts de Rotimi Fani-Kayode. 

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Hernan Bas at the Galerie Perrotin, young dreamers and flowers unveiled

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Article 66/33345With his peep show still lifes and young men who look like they’ve just walked off a Hedi Slimane catwalk currently on show at the Galerie Perrotin, American artist Hernan Bas’ figurative paintings are much less conventional than they might at first seem.
December 15th 2015Art
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The cast of a Hedi Slimane menswear show lost inside dreamy landscapes with a fin de siècle aesthetic… This sort of anachronistic evocation and fantastical encounter has always populated the paintings of Hernan Bas ever since they started appearing at the cusp of the 2000s. When the artist showed his exhibition “Slim Fast” in Miami, his style was instantly recognisable. In stark contrast to the exaggerated virility typically celebrated in the capital of Florida, this artist fills his canvases – which appear suspended in time – with neurasthenic dreamers and homo-erotic modern-day dandies. His inspiration, he acknowledges, also comes from fashion magazines – particularly when Hedi Slimane was thrusting a new masculinity into the limelight with its slight physique and gaunt features, far from the canons of beauty of the 1990s. Hernan Bas also embodies an element of the zeitgeist with this return to figurative painting. He’s used it to plunge ever deeper into the worlds of Oscar Wilde and Edgar Allan Poe with references to classical painting. The artist leaves Miami for Detroit and while abstract painting floods the art marker, his works continues to garner interest.  This is probably due to his success in bringing his landscapes, portraits and surreal, bucolic interiors into new lands. Now the works have become denser, more experimental, mixing up figurative and abstraction… With a more complex renewed vocabulary – for the first time he’s showing still lifes with something of a 19th century peep show about them – Hernan Bas continues to tell stories, like so many dreams, filled with enigmatic ambiguity.

 

Numéro: The show "Fruits and Flowers" on at the Galerie Perrotin until December 19th marks a notable evolution in your oeuvre. Why stop the literary references?

Hernan Bas: For the last two years I’ve become more interested in painting itself, in the way that Matisse worked his motifs for example, but also in Pierre Bonnard. His paintings, showing scenes from daily life (children in the park, women taking their bath), helped my approach to evolve. I wanted to tell my own stories. So instead of drawing sources for my tableaux from literature, I turned to the ordinary day-to-day of a rural America, kids hanging out (a pie eating contest, apple bobbing…). I feel this puts my paintings into present time. 

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“Bobbing” 2015. Acrylique sur toile.152,4 x 121,9 cm.

Photo: R. H. Hensleigh

Courtesy Galerie Perrotin

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This is also the first time you’re showing a series of still lifes, completely unheard of in your work.

I started developing this passion for still lifes, floral in particular, and the way they’ve been viewed over the years. Finally I decided to have a go myself. I went to the market; I bought flowers, very traditional bouquets… And of course the result was way too classic (laughs)! Too simple. Too easy. So then I came up with the idea of covering them with a blind. I didn’t want to make them disappear either; I’d spent way too long painting them! So you end up with this game of disclosure and concealment… The paintings changed their nature and turned into a sort of peep show (laughs).

 

Did you want to deflower your paintings?

I realised that flowers have this very powerful erotic charge. We immediately think of Mapplethorpe’s photographs… The flower as the symbol of the female sex. But the flowers themselves are also incredibly sexual. Look at the way they reproduce, in this cross over way, as they share the pollen between them… 

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“Private Bouquet (three daisies)” 2015. Acrylique, sérigraphie, crayons de couleurs, craie et pastel gras sur papier 138,5 cm x 130 cm

Photo: R. H. Hensleigh

Courtesy Galerie Perrotin

 

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Some of your paintings contain abstract motifs. Have you never been tempted to follow the wave of abstraction that’s been sweeping the art world for the last few years?

The abstract elements in my painting correspond with the moment when I wanted to have fun with them (laughs). There was a time, maybe six or seven years ago, when I did think about going abstract. And then it just never happened. And I don’t regret it because that’s what everyone else does now. I feel like that’s all I ever see.

 

You seem generally more interested in classical European art history than the major American movements of the 20th century.

I was born in 1978 in Miami, and believe me art certainly did not reign supreme back then. The Miami Art Basel fair didn’t exist yet. There were much fewer museums. Failing to find any interest in my immediate surroundings I tuned to the great European masters. I would have much preferred to spend a day at the Louvre than at MoMA. I didn’t feel any particular affinity with pop art or the minimalism that have such prominent status in the States. I was always more interested by the idea of telling stories. You could say that abstract expressionism tells stories too… but personally they never struck me as very obvious (laughs). 

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“Wilting” 2015. Acrylique, sérigraphie, crayons de couleurs, craie et pastel gras sur papier. 147,3 x 129,5 cm

Photo: R. H. Hensleigh

Courtesy Galerie Perrotin

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The stories that you tell aren’t always fairy tales. Where does this darkness that emanates from your paintings come from?

Ultimately I’m a bit of a Goth (laughs). Even when I did paintings inspired by transcendentalism and the beauty of the world, I always staged a nature that’s inhabited by ghosts or strange and scary stories. Maybe I’m just inspired by what I listen to in my studio. I spent my days with the TV on in the background. And I have to admit it’s often the TV show Law & Order. Passing the day listening to stories of rape and murder might have something to do with it (laughs).

 

Hernan Bas, "Fruits and Flowers", Galerie Perrotin, 76, rue de Turenne, Paris III. On until December 19th www.perrotin.com

 

By Thibaut Wychowanok

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“The Unlikely Winner” 2015. Acrylique sur toile. 182,9 x 152,4 cm

Photo: Claire Dorn

Courtesy Galerie Perrotin

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“The rare orchid collector (on expedition)” 2015. Acrylique sur toile. Acrylic on linen. 213,4 x 182,9 cm.

Photo: Claire Dorn

Courtesy Galerie Perrotin

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“Mr. Robot”, Golden Globes winner

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Article 66/33378Winner of a Golden Globes, the great TV show created by Sam Esmail that features a troubling and troubled hacker has marked the end of the year 2015.
January 11th 2016Culture

Yesterday, Mr Robot created by Sam Esmail won a Golden Globe of the Best Television Serie Drama in front of Narcos or Games of Thrones. Exploring the dark side of today’s world, T.V. series Mr. Robot tells the story of a computer geek who sets himself up as  a virtual vigilante, hacking into the lives of all sorts of shady characters to dispense his version of justice. But, in this paranoid thriller, things are not quite as they at first seem, lurching between the real and the delirious as we follow the main character’s bouts of insanity.

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When Sam Esmail, the 38-year-old writer and producer of Mr. Robot, is asked about all the different references in his series, he reels off a varied and impressive list of masterpieces without fearing any of the derision that often greets the presumptuous. A touch of Stanley Kubrick never having hurt anyone, he even pays homage to A Clockwork Orange each time the series’ title appears, particularly in his use of classical music. The voiceover of his hero, a young hacker who rarely smiles, recalls both that in Taxi Driver and the ambience of Fight Club, while the ghost of John Carpenter’s classic They Live is never far away. Where series are concerned, Mr. Robot recalls, especially in the first episodes, the nail-biting Profit, a mid-90s flash-in-the-pan that featured a big-business executive determined to do evil around him in pursuit of filthy lucre.

 

But Mr. Robot is firmly set in the here and now− in our world of constant financial crises, Edward Snowden, the erosion of the private sphere through the internet, and real and virtual political battles − and is realized with surgical precision in high thriller style. Elliot Anderson, the main character, who is constantly enveloped in a black hoody, incarnates the confusions of our times. Employed by a firm specializing in online security – two words he finds it hard not to associate without irony − Elliot spends his nights in front of his computer screen, hacking into the lives of a whole gallery of shady sorts. His goal? Playing the virtual vigilante, unmasking liars and criminals. Quickly, though, he extends his range and, instead of just saving the suicidal widow and the vulnerable orphan, takes on a mission to save the entire planet − our do-gooder geek gets involved with an activist who wants to bring down the whole capitalist system by wiping out all debt through a giant series of hacking strikes. The first enemy on the list of companies that they target is called, in all simplicity, “Evil Corp.” Revolution is here!

 

As it follows the potent character of Elliot, one of the most original we’ve seen in recent years on both the small and the big screen, Mr. Robot constantly walks the line between the real and the virtual, but also between truth and lies. For young Elliot isn’t just an angry introvert, he also suffers from personality disorders, which were progressively revealed over the course of the first season’s ten episodes (the incredible sessions with his psychiatrist were just a sort of warmup). As a result, his is a strange, slippery, troubling and totally fascinating personality. With Elliot, Mr. Robot is part of a tradition − that includes Homeland and its bipolar heroine− where nothing that we see can be taken at face value. The viewer is constantly on the edge, as are the characters. What dream, what nightmare are we in? Is there someone − anyone − we can trust? The screen is filled with the damned and the deranged, hope is a far-off land, and the moments of peace are few and far between. Which isn’t to say that watching Mr. Robot has you constantly chewing your nails off: as with every strong or even extreme show, it has a highly cathartic effect. While sometimes not everything is perfect, and if certain episodes seem overly demonstrative – too much brio can kill the brio − Esmail manages to keep the thread taught throughout nonetheless. As for the actors, lead by sexy Rami Malek and comeback-kid Christian Slater, it is they who bring the human dimension to this astonishing story.

 

 

By Olivier Joyard

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Eliott, Mr. Robot's main character.

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“Carol” a poignant and lyrical movie with Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara

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Article 66/33382Released today, the brilliant movie directed by Todd Haynes, that ran for Cannes in May 2015, features a magistral Cate Blanchett and a subtle Rooney Mara. A must-see.
January 13th 2016Culture

Carol, the magnificent new film by Todd Haynes, made a big impression at  Cannes. A lyrical movie in the classic tradition of Hollywood melodramas, which tells the story of a 1950s lesbian love.

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Gather two bodies that attract each other irresistibly, create a cocoon of images around them, and maintain them in this Eden for as long as possible − cinema sometimes displays a radical and heart-rending simplicity. It’s this candour that director Todd Haynes (Velvet Goldmine, 1998, Far From Heaven, 2002) is aiming for in his sixth feature, Carol, the most beautiful big-screen romance in years. A story about love and social constraints that moved audiences at this year’s Festival de Cannes, and conjures up a rhapsodic 1950s America through an adaptation of a 1952 Patricia Highsmith novel that was originally published under the pseudonym Claire Morgan. An ode to lyricism, both in life and on screen, which stands out in comparison to today’s movies' output of raw, violent or kitchen-sink realism and “cinéma vérité.”

 

At its centre stand two women: weary, bourgeois Carol (Cate Blanchett in an Oscar-worthy performance) and Therese, a young shop girl who’s not entirely in tune with her sexuality as the film begins (Rooney Mara, softer than usual). They meet and try to live out their love despite their differences in age, status and everything else… Around them evolve a jealous husband (grandiose Kyle Chandler, hero of Friday Night Lights) and a social code that refuses to aknowledge lesbians. In real melodramas, it’s all about the dichotomy between two worlds that converge and their relationship with the outside one. How do you soften the irremediable clash between internal and external reality? Everything that Haynes films, from Carol and Therese’s first meeting to their first embrace, from their secret dinners to their feverish gazes, delicately attempts to answer this question. Almost inevitably, each shot is veiled in melancholy, as if everything were already over when it had barely begun, as if catastrophe were eroding pleasure at the very moment it was born, as if the present became, in the blink of an eye, an inaccessible memory. This Proustian intensification is something we already witnessed at the beginning of the century with In the Mood for Love. While Carol doesn’t quite reach the legendary depth of Wong Kar-wai’s masterpiece – its narrative is more linear for a start – it gets voluptuously close, and leaves a lasting impression on the viewer.

 

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The camera, operated by Ed Lachman (the genius director of photography who has also worked with Larry Clark), slips across skin, fabric and sparkling sets but doesn’t fall into the temptation of decorativeness. Even if it is so easy to confuse the two, Haynes is an aesthete but definitely not a simple illuminator. His visions are heavy with meaning, wrought in the gold of a mise en scène that is precise, sensitive and electrified with intimacy. Who else today could capture the instant when a body stiffens with pain at the moment of a break-up? Who else could be able to catch that killing detail during an embrace − the hand that tenses or, on the contrary, frees itself? Using the immersive possibilities of cinema, Carol offers a sensual, whispering odyssey that is miles away from the upfront codes of lesbian chic. Haynes’s last vintage-style melodrama, Far From Heaven, was also about impossible love (between a black gardener and a white middle-class woman) in an America frozen in Technicolor. As a result, one might be tempted to  reproach him for taking refuge in a critique of the past, of not wanting to engage with his own era. But in fact, despite first appearances, he does engage with it. One could even say he stares its intolerances in the face and, by way of resistance, strives to create pure beauty.

 

 

Carol by Todd Haynes. Film show in France.

 

By Olivier Joyard.

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Portfolio : Jean Nouvel and Claude Parent’s wildest projects exhibited at Galerie Azzedine Alaïa

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Galerie simple431The two leading figures of French architecture come back to Galerie Azzedine Alaïa with 8 of their incredible projects for museums, none of which have been completed so far.
February 01st 2016Architecture
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Portfolio : from Rick Owens to Robert Stadler, Carpenters Workshop Gallery presents its greatest and newest designers’ artpieces

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Galerie simple401Andrea Branzi, Ingrid Donat, Rick Owens, Robert Stadler, and more : The photographer Mehdi Mendas immortalized the newest creations exhibited at Paris’ Carpenters Workshop Gallery.
January 22nd 2016Design
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On the left: Giacomo Ravagli, "Barometro", 2015, Rosso Levanto marble, brass and leds, H60 L70 W30 CM . 

On the right : Atelier Van Lieshout"Strong Chair", 2015, iron and fabric, H72 L92 W88 CM 

 

 

 

 

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Demna Gvasalia, Vetements founder and Balenciaga's artistic director, talks about Vetements and the release of “Vetements by Pierre-Ange Carloti”

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Numéro : How did the idea of this book emerge ?

Demna Gvasalia : Pierre-Ange Carlotto who made the pictures contained in this book, is a friend. He wanted to shoot our lookbook and I personally wanted images a bit more easygoing, spontaneous, transcribing the preparation of the collection. So just before the catwalk, he spent 3 entire days at the studio with his camera. He was taking pictures permanently : during the collection preparation, the catwalk and the aftershow party following it. In the end, we had more than 500 gorgeous pictures telling the whole story of the collection. At the same time, the publishier came to propose us a book project. I told myself « it’s fate ». Because if we didn’t make this book, these pictures would have simply end up on Instagram and a big part of them would have never been shown.

 

You always claimed to work in a collective way without a real hierarchy at the studio of Vetements, is this book the reflection of this state of mind ?

It actually contributes to pass on our state of mind, our spontaneity in particular, our energy, making the models always walk at a quick pace during our catwalks. My muses are not inaccessible creatures but those people around us. (he shows the dozen of kids around him wearing xxl bomber jackets, hoodies, caps and scarves of the russian designer Gosha Rubchiinsky) The book is also useful to show that making fashion is not only about stress, it is also fun. The day we won’t have fun anymore, we will stop. When we launched our brand, everybody told us we were crazy, but we knew we had to do it.

 

Today, in parallel of the next collection Vetements, you are getting ready your first collection for Balenciaga. How do you feel about this full split ?

Balenciaga is another story, but I feel it exciting to work for these two brands at the same time. I am a day at Vetements, and a day at Balenciaga – Paris left bank. It’s two worlds apart. So it’s for me the chance to pass on a creative message in two different ways.

From now, the journalists are looking for « the new Vetements », fearing to let go the young prodigy, who could be appointed at the head of a big fashion house overnight…

 

Do you have the feeling you have brought a change in the fashion industry ?

Really ? I did not know our label had such an influence. I think it’s a good time period for fashion anyways, we are finally witnessing a renewal.

 

Is this new trend due to the influence of social medias ?

Certainly, yes. The social medias are a part of our lives, we spend so much time on our iPhones within a day. I think we have to accept it and not being nostalgic. It’s tools we must know how to use.

 

 

Interview by Delphine Roche

 

Read our article on Vetements.

 

 

www.vetementswebsite.com

www.idea-books.com

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Article avec galerie419On the occasion of the book launch “Vetements by Pierre-Ange Carloti”, Numéro met up with the label founder, who is also Balenciaga's artistic director.
January 27th 2016Fashion

Four collections were enough for the label Vetements to become the new fashion trend, and to see its leader Demna Gvasalia being appointed at the head of the Balenciaga house. Follower of a post-modern irony, the collective of creative people with a neo-punk mind, introduced a collector’s book during the men catwalks in Paris, it traces the last days preceding his Spring-Summer catwalk 2016. Printed in 500 copies only, the work has unleashed a crowd of trendy kids coming in hundreds to line up, hoping to leave with this bible « that will be legendary soon » according to the publisher Idea Books (selling its books at the stores Dover Street Market, Comme des Garçons, Trading museum and on Instagram). Numéro had a conversation with Demna Gvasalia between two autograph requests from the kids going into ecstasy.

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Portrait : Pierre-Ange Carlotti

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For the love of Jobs

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Article 66/33436With a script by brilliant Hollywood writer Aaron Sorkin, “Steve Jobs”, directed by Danny Boyle, paints a powerful portrait of the iconic founder of Apple, depicting him during the three key moments of his career.
February 02nd 2016Culture
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It can become rather dizzying when you think about the influence that Steve Jobs, cofounder of Apple, currently has on our lives. Even though he died in 2011, the man who revolutionized the personal computer has managed to infiltrate the everyday existence of hundreds of millions of consenting human beings, and almost no one is upset about it. The portrait of such a phenomenon deserves better than a biopic in the hackneyed traditions of the genre – and indeed who remembers Jobs, by Joshua Michael Stern, which came out in 2013? This was the trap that Danny Boyle’s astonishing new film Steve Jobs set out to avoid. Based on an acclaimed biography by the journalist Walter Isaacson, the movie carefully steers clear of the classic narrative arc of the success story, where the rise inevitably precedes the fall, and instead prefers a circular narrative, in which the story of Steve Jobs is conjured from just three isolated moments in his life. Vibrating with intensity, each takes place during the hour preceding a product-launch event: the first in 1984, when the Macintosh computer came out; the second in 1988, when Jobs left Apple and brought out the NeXT computer; and the last in 1998, for the launch of the colourful iMac.

 

Such a theatrical structure could have been a little ponderous, but is in fact completely euphoric thanks to the talents of scriptwriter Aaron Sorkin, author of the extraordinary political series The West Wing, as well as of the portrait of Mark Zuckerberg that is David Fincher’s The Social Network. Sorkin’s style is instantly recognizable, the screen being saturated with words, which bring out all the intelligence of his characters. In Steve Jobs, clashes of ego are rendered as rhetorical showdowns between the hero (played by Michael Fassbender) and his closest collaborators such as Steve Wozniak (Seth Rogen), Apple’s cofounder, his marketing director and confidante, Joanna Hoffman (Kate Winslet), and John Sculley (Jeff Daniels), Apple’s CEO at the time. Added to the mix is Jobs’s complex relationship with his daughter, who was born in the early 80s and whom at first he didn’t want to recognize. The man in the roll-neck is portrayed in diffracted form, his bad temper and lack of empathy making themselves felt through his absurd demands, his hasty judgments and his megalomaniacal ambitions. The moment when someone tells him that being a genius absolutely does not justify behaving like a jerk, the film hits on its true subject, which structures all of Sorkin’s oeuvre: how dominating masculinity, in a position of power, must be both admired and put in its place.

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Sorkin has in fact created a self-portrait, since he’s been known in the past for his personal problems (particularly with drugs) for which – control freak that he is – he always refused outside help, even when he was drowning in work after agreeing to write 20 series episodes a year. But despite these subconscious private issues, the focus in the film is always on Jobs, and the verbal jousts are electrifying. A director without a particular style, Danny Boyle is perfect for the exercise, which consists in following the rhythm of the words and giving them carnal form. Ultimately his camera captures a man who was unknown to the world, a man whose inability to tell others the truth – his truth – becomes touching. “I wanted to make an action film with words,” Boyle said of the movie. And that’s exactly what he’s done.

 

 

Steve Jobs, by Danny Boyle, out on February 3rd. 

 

 

 

By Olivier Joyard

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“I’ve started making clothes.” confides Dior Homme's new face Robert Pattinson in Numéro Homme

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Article 66/33538One of the most bankable actors of his generation, Robert Pattinson has taken a path no one would have predicted: the Dior Homme perfume and ready-to-wear muse exclusively talked to Numéro about his on-going projects.
March 03rd 2016Portrait
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Three years ago after the series of Twilight films, you changed direction, notably with David Cronenberg. You swing between elation and anxiety about the next chapter of your career. Where are you today?

I’ve accepted the idea that it takes time for the most amazing projects to come into existence. Crazy things are the most fragile things. Sometimes they collapse. I look for directors I really want to work with. For years I’ve dreamt of doing a film with the French director Claire Denis, and now finally it’s about to happen. We’re going to start making a full length science fiction film in May. The Danish artist Olafur Eliasson is going to design space ships and black holes. It’ll be completely crazy! I don’t know if my presence helped get the budget up and running, but for the film I’m making in a few days’ time [the interview took place on January 19th] I think I was a little influential. It’s a project that belongs to the brothers Josh and Benny Safdie, indie film makers from New York who are totally underground in the very best sense of the word. Josh told me how he made his first movie, The Pleasure of Being Robbed, using the money he’d got from an advert for a handbag. Thanks to just one advertisement he made a whole movie!

 

The Safdie brothers described you as “indomitable” in an interview. A nice compliment coming from them…

I just love them. I came across a still from their film Heaven Knows What, before the trailer was released. Blown away by the power of that image, I sent an email straight away to Brady Corbet, who I’d just made a film with - he’s now a director. I knew he was mega connected in New York, and obviously he knew the Safdie brothers. I met up with them and two months later they sent me one of the best scripts I ever read. With them I’m going to discover another kind of cinema. The other actors I’m working with aren’t professionals, because Benny and Josh do street castings. I won’t be seen as an actor in the classic sense.

 

By heading into more exacting cinema, do you feel as if you’ve found your path? The Twilight era finally seems over for good…

I guess that the public have a certain image of me. I still feel like I need to prove myself. I haven’t had enough lead roles for people to associate me with something else, to see me in a different light. In the meantime I’m taking my own route, always with diversity in mind. I’ve just made a film with James Gray in Columbia [The Lost City of Z]: an adventure film in suits where the characters get hungry. They get lost in the jungle and come across some ancient ruins. They love James Grey in France don’t they? He’s a perfect guy. I’ve never met more of a New Yorker than him. He really was the ideal companion to venture into the jungle [laughs]. When he went into a river, he wore one of those all-in-ones like scientists wear to avoid contamination! 

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Costumes, DIOR HOMME. Vintage boots, DR. MARTENS. 

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Are you into directors from your own generation?

Yes, more and more so. BeforeThe Childhood of a Leader by Brady Corbet, who’s 27 years old, I’d never made a film with someone so young. It was a totally different experience to working with a master. Another vision of film making altogether. I can feel that too with the Safdie brothers. They’re so used to everyone saying ‘no’. They function in a world they don’t have control of, so they go through it with such strength. Just a few weeks ago we did some try-outs for the film in a car wash in the middle of New York. We’d just gone in and started to film. Employees and customers looked at us like we were nuts: “Get out of here, go on, what the hell are you doing there, for fucks sake!” But before they got a chance to call the cops, the scene was done.

 

You’ve been collaborating with Dior since 2013. First of all you did the campaign for Dior Homme fragrance with director Romain Gavras. The most recent one was shot by Peter Lindbergh. Where do you see this partnership going?

Right from the start, everyone there was so nice to me. At the first meeting they said quite simply, “You do what you want.” It was an easy decision to make because Dior has never forced me to do anything. I think there are some clauses in my contract that I’ve never even been asked to respect [laughs]! Public appearances for example… It’s pretty cool. Our collaboration is even extending to clothes starting this year. The first campaign comes out in April. I just feel super relaxed in that atmosphere, there’s nothing corporate about it.

 

Do you ever think about writing or directing?

I’ve started making clothes. For the last two years, I’ve been visiting producers and craftsmen. There’s already quite a few pieces. I love doing it. My style is influenced by the cities I go to, sourcing fabrics and local skills. In Los Angeles it’s really easy to work with denim and do workwear inspired clothes. In England I look more towards wool and knitwear. What I do is pretty multifaceted, clothes for men and for women, things that I make with friends… But I’m not going into too much detail, I don’t want to jinx anything…

 

Something you can’t avoid however is the passage of time. You’re going to be 30 in May. How do you think you’ll deal with that?

Frankly I’m terrified! It’s been like a week that I’ve suddenly realised its gonna happen, and today for the first time, I gave myself a close shave before the photoshoot. I did fittings yesterday, the model in the presentation image looked about 14 years old. And when I looked in the mirror, I thought, “But why does my ass look like that?” [laughs]. 

 

 

By Olivier Joyard

 

Check out the full article and Jean-Baptiste Mondino's story in the Numéro Homme spring-summer 2016, available starting from March 2nd in newsstands and on iPad.

 

 Subscribe to the print edition of Numéro

→ Subscribe to the Numéro iPad app

 

 

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Vests, DIOR HOMME.

 

 

 

Realisation: Ryan Hastings. Make-up: Diana Schmidtke for Dior. Haircut: Frida Aradóttir. Setting: Hervé Sauvage from Tristan Godefroy.

 

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Robert Pattinson, photographed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino, wears an embroidered leather bomber, DIOR HOMME.

 

 

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David Cronenberg tells us everything about his first novel “Consumed”

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Article 50/50578With his very first novel, “Consumed”, mythic film director David Cronenberg has produced a consummate thriller that weaves a heady tale of sex, disease, geopolitics and 3D printing. He spoke to Numéro about its genesis.
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Numéro: When did you start writing Consumed?

David Cronenberg: It started as a screenplay around 2008. There was the idea of this French philosophical couple, a sort of naïve North American journalist couple and the apparent murder of the wife from the French philosophical couple, which the journalists had decided they should investigate. But at a certain point I couldn’t continue – sometimes something dies, you just don’t know why. In retrospect I may have romanticized it, but I felt I couldn’t have fulfilled the promise of the premise in movie form. I’d pushed up to the limit of that form, while the novel could give me so much more room to move in terms of complexity and intellectualism.

 

At what point did you turn to fiction?

There was a phone call from Nicole Winstanley at Penguin Canada. She said, “I’ve seen your movies, I’ve read your screenplays, and I really think you could and should write a novel. Have you thought of that?” Only for about 50 years, actually! I always thought I’d be a novelist, never a film-maker at all. My father was a journalist and a writer – I used to fall asleep to the sound of his typewriter. Our house was full of books, so the idea of writing was very normal to me. Being an author seemed a comfortable and obvious choice.

 

So how did you end up making films instead?

I was at Toronto University at the time, the New York underground was taking place – Kenneth Anger, Andy Warhol… They were making movies on their own. It was the 60s, you know, you’d grab your camera, do your own thing. You didn’t have to go to film school, didn’t have to be part of Hollywood, you just did it! The technology of film was also intriguing. How do you get the sound to synchronize with the picture? People shoot with their iPhones and don’t event think about it because it’s automatically synchronized, but in film it isn’t. I was curious. I literally looked up “camera” and “lens” in the Encyclopædia Britannica and tried to figure out how you do all this stuff. I got a subscription to American Cinematographer Magazine. It was all very exciting, because suddenly I saw how films were made, whereas I hadn’t had a clue before.

 

What’s the difference between writing a screenplay and a novel?

Turning to literature wasn’t a quick switch, though to me writing has been neither obscure nor intimidating. Screenwriting is very, very different from prose writing. Most of my friends who were aspiring film-makers didn’t know how to write. I felt that I could, because I’d written some short stories that were published in university magazines and for which I even won some prizes. Screenwriting is a very bizarre, hybrid kind of writing, and you’d usually not get high marks for your style. When you get a screenplay that is very fulsome in its prose people say, “Oh God! This guy is a frustrated novelist, he should know he’s writing a screenplay.” In a screenplay you don’t describe the hero in great detail because you’d cast Tom Cruise and he doesn’t look like that. The only thing that goes directly from the screenplay to the screen is the dialogue. If you can write good dialogue, and have some sense of narrative structure, you can be a screenwriter. As for the quality of your prose, forget it! Some famous screenwriters can’t write at all – bad grammar, bad spelling, it’s pathetic! But they’re still good screenwriters. What’s more, there’s the pressure of commercial release versus art release. As time goes by, I realize that to make an unusual or a subversive film is very difficult because it’s extremely hard to find the financing for it, and this consideration comes into play when writing a screenplay.

 

The minute your book was out, people asked if you would adapt it to the screen. And you said no. Why?

When I directed the opera version of my movie The Fly in Paris, people said, “Obviously, you’ll be wanting screens and stuff.” And I said, “Absolutely not, I’ve made the movie, I don’t want to make it again. So no video trickery, just the complete theatrical experience. I want to do what somebody would have done a century ago doing an opera, using the music, the choreography and so on.” The same goes with the book: I didn’t write it as a template for a film, it doesn’t need a movie to validate it. Five or six producers approached me about adapting Consumed. But I just think of myself as the novelist who is quite happy to sell them the option and the rights. Give me the money and I’ll come to the première!

 

In fiction you can bring out certain details, like your character who notices that another pronounces “migraine” the British way.

You wouldn’t even get that in a film, or it would last a second. And the American audience wouldn’t understand that that was the English pronunciation. In fiction you can get the richness of detail. The way you can describe reality in depth is the name of the game for me, whether it’s physical, psychological or technological.

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Portrait by Éric Nehr.

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Why French? You’d never get that in America – a “public intellectual,” a philosopher who writes books, who’s involved in politics and is a celebrity – it’s quite unique to France. 

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And then there’s the way you’re able to convey the sense of time.

Yes, the subjectivity of time in fiction is something that beats cinema: the interiority of time, the way your mind slips back and forth in time as you’re experiencing something. To do this in a movie is heavy or precious, and basically very distracting. It’s something you usually avoid unless you’re doing an experimental film where time is the subject. In narrative films, the geological layers of time are usually all translucent. As a writer, you have a fullness of time that would be impossible in cinema. All of my movies are well under two hours. So my feeling about movies is “Get in and do it and get out,” and that served me well enough. But a book’s different: you allow yourself to be slower, you can spend time building your characters, their psychology, going into the intricacies of their relationships. It’s the voluptuous art of the novel: you can be expansive and your reader accepts it!

 

Who are your influences?

I went through a very long Nabokov period, as well as a very long William Burroughs period. Very different authors, but I admire both nonetheless. One of the problems for me was that I found myself writing pastiches of, let’s say, Nabokov, without being him. I always felt I was doing pseudo-Nabokov or pseudo-Burroughs or pseudo-something. Going into films I found I had no influences. I’m not Brian De Palma who is constantly redoing Hitchcock. With cinema there was no one there oppressing me. Coming back to literature at my age, all these authors feel distant, whatever their influence might have been, and I’ve absorbed so many writers since then, no one is influencing me directly. I’m happy having people say, “Hey, strangely this section reminds me of David Foster Wallace,” or whatever. I’m sure there are many voices in my head. But there’s really no profit for the reader to try to guess the influences.

 

Why Paris, why this French intellectual power couple?

Obviously Sartre and De Beauvoir are the basic model, transported into the future. And then Aristide Arosteguy [the male philosopher] is kind of a mixture of Sartre and Dominique Strauss-Kahn, because Sartre, even if he had affairs, wasn’t very sexy or sexual either. So I’d cast a voluptuary like Strauss-Kahn if I made it into a film. Why French? You’d never get that in America – a “public intellectual,” a philosopher who writes books, who’s involved in politics and is a celebrity – it’s quite unique to France. Shifting the scene to Paris and Europe made it possible to compare both European and American viewpoints. It’s my version of Henry James. James did the naïve, innocent Americans who come to Europe where they are seduced by the cynical, sophisticated Europeans. Though it doesn’t really hold anymore, and I hadn’t thought of it when I was setting up the characters, it is a nice structure.

 

There’s also a rogue surgeon experimenting on the human body. Merging the technological and the organic is a recurrent motif in your work…

It’s part of public discourse: every newspaper has a health or science section now. In The New York Times you always get an article by a doctor on cellular biology and ageing and the like. “Merge” is absolutely the right word, because seeing science through the lens of 1950s science fiction – where technology came from outer space and was destructive and menacing – is wrong. It comes from inside nature as well. I was reading an article on how trees are evolving in order to control the insects that try to kill them, and how they marshal all these defences in a very animalistic way. It’s quite shocking how they find ways of defeating the caterpillars that try to devour them. We humans are reacting like those trees, fighting against ageing and diseases that invade us, not just with our bodies but with technology too. I don’t separate the technological from the organic.

 

Will you write another book?

I’m working on a novel. I actually made a false start, 10,000 words or so, but didn’t find it interesting enough. So now my only project is the phantom of the next book – I don’t have another film project. 

 

 

Consumed, by David Cronenberg, Penguin, 368 pages.

 

 

Interview by Sean J. Rose.

 

 

Check out the full article in the March issue of the Numéro Musique, available in newsstands and on iPads.

 

→ Subscribe to the print edition of Numéro

→ Subscribe to the Numéro iPad app

 

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Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the art of being

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Galerie simple599Tracking Frida Kahlo’s influence, tremendous Mexican painter and fashion icon ahead of her time, this publication mixes paintings and portraits of the artist, fashion stories, and images from fashion shows inspired by her incomparable style.
March 14th 2016Fashion
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Issey Miyake, the ultimate monograph by Taschen Editions

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Galerie simple615In the 80s, Japanese Issey Miyake built a fresh vision of clothes, where utilitarism and poetry met. Taschen Editions devoted a magnificent monograph to go with his exhibition at the National Art Center of Tokyo.
March 21st 2016Culture
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What to think of “Vinyl”, the new Martin Scorsese and Mick Jagger series?

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Article 66/33627The new Martin Scorsese and Mick Jagger HBO series follows the salacious existence of a record label boss. A dip into 1970s New York when drugs, punk, glam-rock and early hip-hop reigned supreme.
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In 2010 Martin Scorsese made his first foray into television by directing a series pilot. But the beginnings of Boardwalk Empire (which for five seasons followed the rise of a mafia boss in 1920s Atlantic City) were rather needy. Almost as if the maestro behind Raging Bull was bored stiff trying to understanding the demands of the medium – and so were we too. The problem seems to be thankfully resolved with a brand new series, Vinyl which has gone above and beyond any expectation. It’s written by Terence Winter, formerly on the Sopranos and now a Scorsese accomplice since Boardwalk Empire and The Wolf of Wall Street. On the production side was no less than Mick Jagger, the originator of the project and official provider of juicy anecdotes. And responsible for the first episode was, of course, the director of The King of Comedy. A dazzling promise of good times to come.

 

It all begins in 1973, New York, in the footsteps of Richie Finestra, a record label boss in search of personal and professional renaissance.

A purchase by a competitor is imminent, and more or less agreed. But he spends his days snorting coke, fixing his problems by creating more, questioning the meaning of his commitments and passions. Between the mafia and the groups who’ll be playing the sounds of tomorrow, daily life is relentlessly volatile. His is a chemically pure male character haunted by guilt, overwhelmed by violence, fickle yet heroic. Actor Bobby Cannavale, barely known until now, imbues him with an immediacy of pain and determination. 

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2015 Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Beyond this figure as cranky as he is touching – even if he’s typical in his unequivocal masculinity – the series strives to identify the ambiguities and mutations of an era that thought music could change the world. The jumpy, brutal style printed by Scorsese on the pilot sublimates the fervour of seventies rock, from glam to a burgeoning punk, as well as the green shoots of disco. Hip-hop also takes its first steps. More than a revival, Vinyl is a screaming hymn to a city. From the dirtiest pavements to the clubs shaken by a youth without fear or loathing, there’s not a décor brimming with desire that escapes him.

 

In this fictional underworld, Scorsese finds that blast of fresh air and destructive energy we intermittently know him for. Sleek, powerful and intense, his pilot appears to resemble both a film (one hour fifty minutes!) and to respect the rules of the show, leaving you thirsting for lots more. The incredible opening sequence is the best ever in Scorsese’s oeuvre and in the history of TV series… The rest of the first season, ensured by other directors, inevitably bears the mark of a creator without inhibitions. This is a man who’s willing to look to the past (Scorsese was 31 years old in 1973 when he made Means Streets) all while living in perfect harmony with his own era. So much for nostalgia, but great news for us...

 

 

Vinyl, on since February 15th every Monday night at 8.55pm on OCS City

 

 

 

By Olivier Joyard​

 

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2015 Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved.

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2015 Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Artist David Altmejd and rock group Yeasayer combine their talents for a fantastic collaboration

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Article 50/50636Rock group Yeasayer invited sculptor David Altmejd to create a visual world for their latest album “Amen and Goodbye”. Numéro met up with the artists to talk about the genesis of this phantasmagorical land.
March 31st 2016Art
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Numéro: David Altmejd, for Yeasayer’s album cover you’ve created an impressive installation that mixes up legendary characters and surreal creatures, what’s it all about?

David Altmejd: To start with the group got in touch with me to supervise the visual identity of the album. But I’m a sculptor. The only thing I know how to do is create objects and spaces. So I suggested making sculptures that they could then use as they liked.

Yeasayer:  And so then one morning a box was delivered. Inside it we found the sculptures and our heads… decapitated. They looked like David’s works that often feature deformed human figures. We carefully put them in our studio and carried on recording with this weird feeling that they were watching us. And almost even judging us...

David Altmejd: And then I had the idea of bringing together all the mythical, religious and imaginary characters that people Yeasayer’s new album, in a life-size installation. I wanted to take them from the musical world of the record into our material world.

Yeasayer: The religious theme lies at the heart of our new album. For Amen & Goodbye, we even wanted to write a real religious manifesto…even though none of us are believers. Our idea was to highlight the continuity between religions, from the Babylonian gods like Ishtar to the Greek and Roman gods, from Judaism to Christianity.

 

Numéro: It’s not the first time David that mythical figures feature in your work. Your sculptures appear to represent angels sometimes at then werewolves at others… 

David Altmejd: I’ve never gone looking for a mythical figure to integrate into my work. They come to the surface during the creative process, without me even noticing. The angel figure for example appeared during my Bodybuilders series. The Bodybuilders are bodies that use their hands to move their own material from one place to another. In a way they reconfigure themselves. One of the fundamental gestures in sculpture, well for me anyway, is taking the materials to a higher place. Now imagine that bodybuilder making the same movement, taking the material of his leg, making a hole, to take his own body higher. Material starts to accumulate behind his shoulders. He grows wings. The figure of an angel appears. I like the idea that such simple gestures can give birth to a figure that’s existed in the history of humanity for thousands of years. I feel like I’m touching something fundamental, that my relationship with the material ends up creating sense. 

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Photo : Mario Palmieri.

Canadian artist David Altmejd photographed in front of his work La Galerie des glaces (2016) exhibited at the Xavier Hufkens Gallery in Brussels.

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When we compose, we always hope to create pieces that are so deep they could contain entire worlds. Our music has always had the ambition of telling stories.

(Yeasayer)

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You’re currently showing at two exhibitions in Brussels: L’Air, at the Xavier Hufkens Gallery, and Les Géants, at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts. What can we see there?

David Altmejd: At Xavier Hufkens, I wanted to create a calm, light and silent ambiance, that adapts perfectly to the gallery space.

I’m showing a head, mirrored structures that seem to disappear into the space, and other sculptures too, notably the Bodybuilders I was talking about earlier. At the Musées Royaux, the exhibition will be noisier with six giants almost five meters tall installed in the middle of the immense forum. These giants are very different from the human-size figures that I’ve been making for a few years. When I was working on them, they were so big I actually forgot they were bodies. All I could see was a space that I had transformed into a laboratory. I’d dig a hole in a leg, and that would become a cave to be explored. So I hid things inside them…

 

Is the act of artistic creation a way for you to invent worlds?

Yeasayer: When we compose, we always hope to create pieces that are so deep they could contain entire worlds. Our music has always had the ambition of telling stories. And in that sense its closer to a film or a book.

Listening to them, the simplest of stories can take on an infinite scope. If it’s about a grandmother serving soup, you can’t just ‘see’ the scene, but you also have to smell the aroma of the soup and feel the slow and painful movements of this grandmother. Music, like all arts, has this capacity to provide a fully immersive environment and to create complex worlds. 

David Altmejd: I started my art studies with painting. But I quickly moved over to the benefits of sculpture. It is the only thing to exist in the same space as the viewer. It lives and breathes the same air. Unlike painting, drawing, photography and cinema that exist only in the space of representation.

I like sculpture because it is a body among other bodies. And the body is the most fascinating object in the world. I’m not talking about the shape or the skin, but this object that’s so complex it can contain a world as infinite as the human being. I want my sculptures to be bodies. I want them to be like human bodies: finite volumes with infinite interior spaces. 

 

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Photo : Stéphane Gallois.

Members of the New York band Yeasayer, Ira Wolf Tuton, Chris Keating and Anand Wilder.

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I brought together all the mythical, religious and imaginary characters that people Yeasayer’s new album, in a life-size installation.

(David Altmejd)

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Every track on Amen&Goodbye appears to have been constructed according to its own biological process, like a living organism that hasn’t stopped growing by aggregating random sonorous textures. How do you bring these pieces to life?

Yeasayer: We start with an idea and we experiment. When the music becomes too obvious we move away from that and add new textures to it. Our work follows a chaotic process of construction. In fact chaos is the very essence of the band. You bring in your ideas and the other members start to modify them. The perfect little world that you’d built at home disappears. Chaos takes its place. And that’s how things move forward.

David Altmejd: My work follows the same process of construction-deconstruction. I never start with sketches or plans. I improvise. I sculpt a body and then realise all of a sudden, that I need to cut off an arm, or add material somewhere else, and in this way the object appears to be in constant motion. This notion of movement is primordial in my eyes.

Sculpture must be living, bursting with energy and tension. To achieve this it must give the impression of being in a constant state of construction, as if caught up in a dynamic. A completed sculpture for me is a dead object of no further interest.

Yeasayer: With Amen&Goodbye, we too strived to move as far as possible from a creation that was too frozen, too perfect. The advantage of working with computers is that we can always improve the sound. But it ends up with a boring perfection, void of the faults that render a piece of music unique. We’re moving away from electro music back towards a production style that’s closer to the rock of the 60s and 70s, holding on to all those accidents that any sound engineer would immediately remove from tracks today. On the album you can hear the hum of an old piano, the sound of a machine that gets turned on in the middle of a take, or the sounds of nature that surrounded us while we were recording in the middle of the countryside.

 

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La Licorne (2016) by David Altmejd (detail), bronze, 223 x 97.5 x 80 cm.

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David Altmejd: It’s interesting that you mention nature because it inspires me a lot too. Not that I’m fascinated by vegetation, trees or animals. It’s the mechanisms that made their creation possible that interests me. For an orchid to come into being, it required a complex process that took place over billions of years. I would love my sculptures to be the result of such a process, a sort of natural mechanics that’s beyond me. It’s very important to me that I lose control. I want the sculpture to make its own decisions, I want it to follow its own logic and for it to show me what I have to do. If I was controlling everything it would only be my equal. Born of my mind, it couldn’t be bigger than me. I want it to go beyond me.

Yeasayer: But in a way your work goes beyond you through our collaboration. We scanned the objects that you’d made to incorporate them into a video that you didn’t make…

David Altmejd: And I love that. I’m like a parent watching from afar the entry into life of one of its children. As an artist I want to create objects that are so complex and intelligent that they generate multiple interpretations. If someone is able to make them say one thing, and someone else something completely different, it means my child is on fine form. 

 

 

David Altmejd’s exhibitions L’air at the Xavier Hufkens Gallery (Brussels) is on until April 9th www.xavierhufkens.com, and Les Géants, at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Brussels) is on until August 21st, www.fine-arts-museum.be

Amen&Goodbye by Yeasayer (mute), released on April 1st.

 

 

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Installation by artist David Altmejd for Yeasayer and their album Amen&Goodbye.

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An interview with Luca Guadagnino, “A Bigger Splash” director and Niko Romito, starred chef.

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Article 50/50648On the occasion of the release of “A Bigger Splash” starring Tilda Swinton and Matthias Schoenaerts, back to our interview with its director Luca Guadagnino and the chef Niko Romito, two Italian friends.
April 06th 2016Culture

Chef Niko Romito and film maker Luca Guadagnino are known for celebrating their beloved Italy around the globe. One, for his exceptional cooking served in a 16th century monastery and the other for his sensual and elegant movies. An interview with two epicureans... 

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Numéro: What coincidence led a director born in Palermo and raised in Ethiopia to meet a chef established in the Abruzzo region?

Luca Guadagnino: It was ten years ago, I was invited to the festival in Sulmona, a little town in the heart of Abruzzo. And, as is my way – I have to admit to being a real gourmet – I immediately looked up the best restaurants in the region. Niko’s stood out immediately. And while our work and the surroundings in which we evolve are completely different, we became close because we share, beyond a love for good food, the same vision of creativity. I can sum it up in one sentence: less is more.

Niko Romito: I express myself in a language that cuts straight to the essential and this leads to very simple dishes – which paradoxically requires a huge amount of work and discipline. My approach to cooking always starts with the product. I get to know it first in order to offer a dish that unveils its profound being, without any sleight of hand or pomposity. For this you have to try and take away, again and again. My ultimate ambition is for the product to speak by itself.

Luca Guadagnino: It’s the same thing, I hope, with my film making. I like starting my films with a multitude of ingredients to end up concentrating on only three or four essential elements. The title A Bigger Splash is a reference of course to the iconic work by David Hockney. The composition of that painting is also very simple: a few blocks of solid colour, clean cut elementary forms. And yet it opens a world of great depth. 

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Dakota Johnson in Luca Guadagnino’s film A Bigger Splash.

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“We both share the same vision of creativity: less is more.” 

Luca Guadagnino

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In what way does the Italian landscapes and local produce affect your creations?

Luca Guadagnino: What we are, for many people, depends on where we come from. My films are always born from an encounter between men and women and a place. The landscape is never just a postcard backdrop. A Bigger Splash is about characters struggling with the present, and who want to rediscover the legendary past of rock ‘n’ roll. A period when they were young and powerful, when they’d conquered a world in a state of revolution. But that revolution failed, even though its aesthetic remains. The island of Pantelleria was a dream setting. Its silence highlights the sound of heightened emotions. It’s the ideal context to bring out the tensions and desires of the characters… But while Italy fascinates me with its colours and landscapes, and I myself feel profoundly Italian, I’m not attached to any particular place, a homeland. I am a real gypsy. I’ve lived in Morocco, Rome, Palermo…  

Niko Romito: It’s the opposite for me; my cooking owes everything to the Abruzzo produce. It’s linked to its forests, its mountains… its very soil!

 

Is sensuality, omnipresent in Luca Guadagnino’s films, as important to you in your cooking?

Niko Romito:  I would say that my cooking is more mystical than sensual. It was Ettore Spalletti, a very important Italian artist, who described as such. I think what he meant by that is that behind its apparent aestheticism, hides messages born from long and laborious work. It provokes internal sensations that lead to reflection. All of that is of course related to the place in which I create, in this 16th century monastery.

Luca Guadagnino:  In spite of what you say I can assure you that your prawn pasta dish explodes in the mouth like an orgasm! This sudden domination of a flavour that carries you away is profoundly sensual… In my film making, I’m very attached to explaining the whys and how’s of human relations, but I am none the less a man for whom the feelings and pleasures of the senses are essential. We are all, first and foremost, flesh and blood, transported by emotions and sensations.

 

A Bigger Splash by Luca Guadagnino, released on April 6th.

Restaurant Reale, Casadonna hotel, Castel di Sangro, Italy.

 

Interview by Thibaut Wychowanok

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Assoluto di Cipolle, Serrani Brambilla Photographers, Francesca Brambilla.

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Left, the three Michelin starred chef Niko Romito, and right, film maker Luca Guadagnino, just back from the Mostra de Venise. 

Portrait by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello.

 

With his shaggy hair, endlessly animated and passionate nature, Luca Guadagnino is just back from the Mostra de Venise where his latest film was shown. A Bigger Splash is about a former rock legend accompanied by her husband and ex-lover with his (very gorgeous) daughter in tow, on the volcanic island of Pantelleria where desire, jealousy and nostalgia all literally erupt. A dream cast – Tilda Swinton, Matthias Schoenaerts, Dakota Johnson and Ralph Fiennes – brilliantly succumb to the Italian director’s world: smart, powerful, elegant and sensual. Luca Guadagnino is a well-established name in the film business. With Amore– accompanied by his partner-in-crime, Tilda Swinton – he gained international recognition in 2009 (taking part in the Venice, Berlin and Sundance festivals and nominated at the Oscars and Golden Globes). A prolific creator, Luca Guadagnino is an insatiable ogre of culture who nourishes himself as much with opera (he first directed Falstaff by Giuseppe Verdi in 2011) as with fashion collaborations (Louis Vuitton, Fendi…). A bon vivant and ‘sensualist’ this towering man has over the last ten years formed a firm friendship with Niko Romito, the young Italian chef who shines with his 3 Michelin stars. His restaurant Reale, is a jewel set within a 16th century monastery in one of Italy’s most beautiful valleys. With Niko Romito himself having just seen A Bigger Splash,Numéro invited these two hedonistic aesthetes to Paris for a passionate and free flowing discussion.

 

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Gian Paolo Barbieri raconte son amour perdu dans “Flowers of My life”

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Galerie simple881Le grand photographe de mode italien Gian Paolo Barbieri publie “Flowers of My life”, écrit en collaboration avec Branislav Jankic, en hommage à son amour perdu, Evar.
April 13th 2016Culture
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